The work of Roland Mesnier

Roland Mesnier was the White House pastry chef for almost 25 years. Recently retired, he has published three books, two cookbooks- Dessert University and Roland Mesnier's Basic to Beautiful Cakes, and a memoir, All the Presidents' Pastries.

The memoir chronicles Chef Mesnier's childhood in the small town of Bonney, his rise from an apprentice to working for chefs in some of the finest hotels in the world, including the Savoy in London, to his position as White House Executive Pastry Chef. My favorite part of the book is the early chapters detailing Chef Mesnier's early days as a baker's apprentice. They offer a wonderful window into a world that, at least in the U.S., is almost extinct. As an apprentice, the budding young chefs would spend a year washing pots and mopping the floors of the kitchen before they were allowed to even crack an egg. The apprentice would live with the family they worked for, sharing meals. Early hours, long days and very little wages marked the introduction to the pastry world. Only the most diligent, committed and hard working would be allowed to continue on with their education. It is no wonder the French revere their bakers-they have earned every fold in their white toque!

Of course, the heart of the book is the years Mesnier spent in the White House. In the 25 years Mesnier spent as Executive Pastry Chef, he worked under the Carter, Reagan, Clinton and both Bush administrations. Having to learn the taste and style of each family as the administrations changed hands, Mesnier offers a fascinating glimpse into the stressful life of cooking for the first families, but always with a professional hand. I have to admit that I felt I it was a little TOO professional. He admits that Nancy Reagan was difficult to please and that with the Clintons it was like having two Presidents in the White House (double the work!) since Hillary would be giving her own lunches and dinners as the same time as Bill. But I was left longing for juicier tid-bits. He must have had to sign a hefty non-disclosure form to work so closely with the first families.

The impression Mesnier did leave me with was how incredibly stressful the the job was-on call 24 hours a day, always on display, your work always judged-you were only as good as last night's souffle! and so much was hanging on impressing visiting dignitaries, and being sure not to offend them.

What surprised me most was the desserts that were served in the White House. Instead of plated desserts, Chef Mesnier would make display pieces for the tables, showcasing his sugar work, which he is a master of. There were a lot of sugar sculptures that would be punctuated with molded sorbet, the actual edible part of dessert. I found myself hungry for more talk about the food-its preparation, the tricks of the trade, the complex flavors. After the third big dinner, I did not want to hear any more about sorbet!

So to get down to some solid food talk, I highly recommend Mesnier's Dessert University, a fabulous collection of White House recipes that includes excellent instructions on technique. I have not made anything from this book that I did not love. He even includes a chapter on basic sugar work, ambitious for the home baker. This book is peppered with White House stories as well, and somehow feels more intimate. But the reason to buy this book is for the recipes, well tested with clear instruction, innovative ideas as well as the classics-try the basic crepes-this is a must have for any one who loves to bake.

I just got my hands on a copy of Chef's new cookbook-Roland Mesnier's Basic to Beautiful Cakes. I have not had a chance to bake anything from it yet, but it follows in Mesnier's Dessert University tradition of combining great technique, fascinating white house stories, delicious sounding confections and gorgeous photography. I will report back when i have had a chance to delve in!